INTERVIEW
Wadim Petunin's illustrated Vogue covers
Wadim is an illustrator with roots in fashion design. In 2021 he joined Grand Matter as a Future Maker, one of three in our mentorship programme for up and coming artists. His journey from design into the world of illustration came from a yearning for a more meaningful outlet of expression and story telling within the fashion landscape.
Fashion illustration is enjoying a renewed energy at the moment. In part rallied by the release of Vogue Italia's all-illustrated January issue last year, which highlighted the importance of illustration as a sustainable option in magazine production, but also an unrivalled tool for expression and imagination. Fashion illustration can be magical, and it looks best on the cover of a magazine!
This month we embarked on a self-initiated brief together with Wadim to pay homage to three of the biggest runway looks from Autumn 2021 Couture collections, and the illustrated Vogue cover. The idea was to showcase his own take on these runway looks from Valentino, Pyer Moss and Jean Paul Gaultier, while exploring and pushing his style into new areas. And what better time to do that, than amidst the return of Fashion Week around the world.
We spoke to him about the process of creating these imagined Vogue covers, the power of illustration as a medium, and getting lost down instagram rabbit holes.
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One of the best perks of illustration in my opinion is taking what’s already there and exaggerating, refining or completely distorting it in a new way
– Wadim Petunin
Where does your interest in fashion come from, and where do you find inspiration?
Before studying fashion design at a vocational school I didn’t really have much interest in fashion, but my time there and especially the people I met have influenced me greatly. Even in my studies in graphic design and illustration, fashion is still a big part of me and my work.
I actually rarely browse through magazines, most of my inspiration comes from Instagram where I really enjoy the possibility to casually explore brands, photographers, models etc. that I’ve never seen before. I love that I can get lost there because it's sometimes like a rabbit hole with never ending contributing tagged accounts who then have even more inspiring images and videos.
Jean Paul Gaultier Autumn 2021 Couture
Photo (Right): Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
What made you choose these 3 looks to draw?
I was looking for variety in composition and the look & feel but still wanted everything to have some kind of common theme. We chose to represent the yellow colour in all three of them to tie them together more. Overall, I really liked the experimental shapes in the Valentino & Pyer Moss looks and was intrigued by the symbolism in the Jean Paul Gaultier look. At first I was afraid to tackle the intricate symbols even though I really love these designs; I'm glad they turned out so nicely!
Do you usually work with reference photography?
I usually draw from imagination, but when referencing photography I try to change it up with my own twist, sometimes combining elements from different imagary. Like with these cover-illustrations, I wanted them to be immediately recognisable, while still letting my own brushstrokes and color themes shine through.
Valentino Autumn 2021 Couture
Is there anything you've tried to push in your work through these images, or any results you weren't expecting?
I actually wasn’t expecting the level of detail in these illustrations as I often break down my work quite simplistically but it was a lot of fun to give more attention and texture to these images. Especially the elaborate faces were an exciting new touch to my recent work. Initially the first sketches were brighter but we liked the moody and toned-down approach more.
Do you enjoy that freedom illustration gives to express and exaggerate details?
This is in fact one of the best perks of illustration in my opinion – taking what’s already there and exaggerating, refining or completely distorting it in a new way works so well, especially with these fashion illustrations! For example, I've let the symbols flow off the clothing, made the hair rollers way bigger than they already are and extended the yellow petals while fading into the background textures.
Pyer Moss Autumn 2021 Couture; Wadim Putenin in his studio
How would you describe your own fashion style?
My own fashion style is actually quite basic, with the muted tones and lots of black, that I often use in my illustrations as well. But I never wear any patterns or prints, it’s quite clean and casual – I've also illustrated some of my favourite outfits.
And finally, do you have a dream client in the fashion world?
I’ve seen illustrators collaborating with Gucci and Delpozo doing some amazing work and it would be a dream come true to have that kind of opportunity!
About Wadim Petunin
With roots in fashion and design, Wadim creates refined yet reflective figurative images that often explore identity, lifestyle and queer culture, and inspired by people and their stories. He creates much of his work digitally, introducing a mixture of texture and line work, and unexpected moments of colour.
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